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A Grade Oil vs. Reed Diffuser Oil

We recently received a question about the difference between A Grade fragrance oils and reed diffuser oils. Namely, what they’re used for and why they’re priced differently. It’s a variation of a question we’ve been asked several times, so it couldn’t hurt to share.

Here’s the question we got:

“Our company is in the process of ordering fragrance scents to make reed diffusers oils. We plan on mixing an assortment of concentrated fragrances with unscented base oil.

I’m a little confused as to your price for oils based on concentrated or pre-mixed.

For example a 32 oz bottle of Sandalwood can be purchased as an A Grade oil for $54.00. Is this pre-mixed with base (ready to pour)? Conversely, if I navigate to this page, I can purchase a 32 oz bottle of Sandalwood oil for $26.00.

Basically, could you instruct me as to the pricing for concentrated oils (not pre-mixed)? Do I look under Skin-Safe Fragrances, or do I look under Reed Diffuser Products/Diffuser Fragrance oils?

Thank you in advance for your help, and we look forward to working with you shortly.”

And our response:

“Thank you for your inquiry and considering our fragrances for your products.

The A Grade Sandalwood is the Pure and Strongest formulation available for that fragrance in a pure skin-safe fragrance oil, 32 oz bottle at $54.00. These fragrances are found under Skin-Safe fragrances. These products are skin-safe and ready for use in candles, lotions, body/room sprays, soaps, potpourris, etc.

The Reed Diffuser Oil Sandalwood, 32 oz. bottle at $26.00, is the Sandalwood fragrance oil blended with our Unscented Reed Diffuser Base and is ready to pour, as-is, into your Reed Diffuser bottles for use as a Reed Diffuser. These products can be found under Reed Diffuser Products, then Diffuser Fragrance Oils.

The A Grade Sandalwood will NOT work properly in its straight form as a Reed Diffuser Oil, as there is different chemistry to get the fragrance to diffuse into the air, which is NOT present in a standard Fragrance Oil. You can get the same smell, in any of our fragrances, in a Reed Diffuser Oil by either purchasing the Reed Diffuser Fragrance Oils in whatever size you may need or you can purchase the straight A Grade Fragrance Oil and the Unscented Reed Diffuser Base and blend these two products to create your own Diffuser Oils. The latter works well if you make multiple products like candles, lotions, soaps, diffusers, etc. and you want the same fragrance throughout your product line or if you want to blend your diffuser oils stronger or weaker for your specific application. Our pre-blended Reed Diffuser Fragrance oils are approximately 50/50 blended with our Unscented Reed Diffuser Base.”

We always love sharing information to help crafters. Do you have a question?

Valentines Day Fragrances

Valentines Day will be here before you know it.

We have the best selling Fragrances for Valentines Day listed together for your convenience.

Make sure and check out this weeks specials.

Each week we will have new items for you to take advantage of!

Don’t miss YOUR Exclusive Deals and The New Fragrance this week on the Specials Page.

See the latest Innovations in the Market and add your ideas and comments with us on our Facebook and Twitter pages live now!

How to Make Bath Bombs

June 22nd, 2010 | Posted in Candle Making Fragrance Oil, Candle Making Supplies, bath bombs, candle colors, candle dyes | 1 Comment »

With the right mixture of ingredients, candle fragrance oils and colors and dyes typically used for candle making can be used for creating bath bombs. Bath bombs will transform your bathing experience into a relaxing and pleasantly fragrant experience.

Assemble the ingredients and follow the instructions below to create your own bath bombs.

Dry Ingredients:
- 1 cup Baking Soda (sodium bicarbonate)
- 1/2 cup Citric Acid
- 1/2 cup Corn Starch
- 1/3 cup Epsom Salts

Wet Ingredients:
- 2 1/2 Tablespoon Vegetable Oil, sweet almond oil, or other light oil
- 1 Tablespoon water
- 1 teaspoon fragrance oil
- 10 to 12 drops FD&C Colors

Mix all the dry ingredients together until you get a smooth blend. Adding Epsom salts adds a bit of shine to the bomb and will make the fizzing action more vigorous. It also seems to shorten the drying time required. Set aside dry mixture while you prepare the wet ingredients.

Slowly pour the wet ingredients into the dry mixture and mix well with your hands. This mixture is dry and has to be packed in the molds quite firmly to keep shape. If you add any other ingredients (such as herbs, Epsom salts or dried flowers) you may need to add a bit more oil or water, but be careful not to add too much as this makes the bombs soggy and harder to dry.

Press mixture into balls or molds and let set for 2 hours. Pop out of molds and let dry for 24 – 48 hours. Pack in cello bags to present to friends or sell. Be creative and have fun!

Fizzing Bath Balls:
- 1/4 cup baking soda
- 2 Tablespoon citric acid
- 1 Tablespoon salt
- 2 Tablespoon powdered sugar
- 2 Tablespoon almond oil
- 1 Tablespoon vitamin E oil
- 1/4 Tablespoon fragrance oil

Combine dry ingredients in bowl and stir till blended. Drizzle in oil and stir till moist. Add Vitamin E and stir well. Take teaspoon sized mixture and form balls. Place on waxed paper and leave 2-3 hours. Let air dry 10 days and then store in air tight container.

How to Make Your Candles Throw

June 21st, 2010 | Posted in Candle Fragrances, Candle Making, Candle Making Fragrance Oil, Candle Making Wax | 8 Comments »

Making your Candle Throw (or cast its fragrance over a wide area) is the goal of Fragranced Candles. This is not hard to achieve if you understand the basic parameters. There are 5 things to consider when making a successfully Fragranced Candle. If you have the following steps in place, your candle making process will yield an excellent and fragrant candle.

Do not be discouraged if your first try is not as good as you had hoped. These things are easily achieved when you know what to plan and look for.

1. Make sure you are using very high grade fragrance concentrates. If you wonder what you have, read the article here about the differences between A Grade and B Grade fragrances and those sold by others.
2. Make sure you use 1 to 1.5 oz of your fragrance per pound. (1 oz to 20 oz liquid wax) You can use less after testing for strength, but start here. With our stuff it will run you out at that level, and you can back off to your desired fragrance strength. Also make sure that your fragrance is mixing completely into your wax. You will know this when you pour into your candle containers. If there is a bunch of unmixed fragrance on the bottom of the pot, raise your temperature next time and stir it in better before pouring.
3. Make sure your wax is holding the fragrance in the wax evenly, all the way to the top. You will know this if there is not any watery substance at the bottom of the container after it sets up. Also, if your candle has very little smell when initially lit or has to burn about half way down before it starts to smell good, then you know the fragrance is settling down into the lower part of your wax. To make sure this does not happen, add one quarter to one half teaspoon of Vybar 260 to your container blend to hold it in properly. This will allow the wax to hold your scent in evenly to the top of the candle after it sets up and in most cases will not noticeably effect the burn of the candle.
4. So, now you have made sure you have;
1. Quality fragrance, and you are
2. Using an adequate amount of it, and the fragrance is mixing properly with your wax, and
3. Your wax is holding it evenly after it sets up, and
4. Make sure the top of the candle is level flat before lighting it. This means in most cases that no matter if you are using a one pour wax, or regular paraffin, you will still have to either do a repour if you are using regular paraffin to fill the crater in the center, or if you are using a one pour container blend, you will have to take a heat gun and remelt the top and fill any holes or dips in the top. Ideally, where the wick comes out of the wax will be level, or a little above the edges of the container where the wax touches the edge of the jar. (like a mini pyramid is shaped) If you do not do this, the wick no matter how big it is, will core down and drown out if it is in a well when lit. The candle tops are easily remelted flat with a heat gun. A hot hair dryer will work in some cases also. Take care not to light the wick with your heat gun, people will complain that the candle is used and want to return it if the wick is charred.

5. The Whole Secret to a Candle that throws is to know where the “Throw” comes from. It comes from the melt pool of the candle wax when it burns. The actual fragrance oil burning makes no smell at all. Raw Fragrance only creates soot if burned directly with an oil lamp wick by itself. (don’t try that yourself by the way, its dangerous) This is why Melts or Tarts smell so good when used in a tart melter. The tart melter makes a melt pool to warm up the candle fragrance in the wax pool creating a warm updraft to spread the fragrance throughout your home. The same applies to a Candle. The Melt Pool should be approximately one quarter inch to the thickness of your pinkie finger at the most. A deeper melt pool can make your container hot and could possibly spill onto your customers table or carpeting if bumped so be careful and find the ideal melt pool for your container by varying your wick size up or down. A Melt Pool of one quarter inch works fine in most cases and will throw the fragrance as the candle is burning, making the melt pool, and creating a slight heat updraft from the candle that takes the fragrance with it to fill your home.

We are here to help you be successful. If you have other questions feel free to ask, we are happy to help you with this or any other fragrance application.

How to Figure Melt Points of Waxes and Oils

June 16th, 2010 | Posted in Candle Fragrances, Candle Making Fragrance Oil, Candle Making Wax, Wax Melt Point | 1 Comment »

When Mixing waxes, oils and additives for candle making, it is first important to note that All calculations are made by weights, not volumes or liquid measures. I learn best by example and hopefully you will also. Here is a couple of samples for you to see how it works.

I want to make a pillar candle with a melt point of 145F. I only have a slab of votive wax with a 125 melt point and some C-15 with a melt point of 212. How much of each would I use to get my desired melt point? Heres how it works to calculate raising a melt point..

Votive wax at a 125 mp – 77%, 125 x 77% = 96.25 melt point, 77% of a pound 348.81 grams, 12.32 oz wt

212 MP additive -23%, 212 x 23% = 48.76 melt point, 23% of a pound is 104.19 grams or 3.68 oz wt

Totals -100% =145.01 degree melt point

Ok, so you can see how it works to lower a melt point, here is another scenario,

You have some 125 mp votive wax left over and you want to know how much mineral oil to use to make a good one pour container blend at approx 100mp.

Votive wax at a 125 mp – 80%, 125 x 80% = 100.0 melt point, 80% of a pound is 362.4 grams or 12.8 oz wt

Mineral Oil at 0 mp (liquid)20%, 0 x 20% = 0 melt point, 20% of a pound is 90.6 grams or 3.2 oz wt.

Totals -100% =100.00 degree melt point

You have some extra wax around you want to use up so you are going to mix them together. You want to know what the melt point is so you will know what to use the wax for.

Votive wax at a 125 mp – 70%, 125 x 80% = 100.0 melt point, 80% of a pound is 362.4 grams or 12.8 oz wt

Molded Candle Wax at 140 mp 20%, 140 x 20% =28 melt point, 30% of a pound is 135.9 grams or 4.8 oz wt.

Pillar wax at a 145 mp – 10%, 145 x 10% = 14.5 melt point, 10% of a pound is 362.4 grams or 12.8 oz wt

Totals -100% =142.5 degree melt point

(The 142.5 mix above would be an Excellent Molded Candle Blend)

All of the above scenarios will weigh 16 oz or 1 pound but will make 20 oz liquid when melted. Don’t confuse the liquid volume of 1 pound being approx 20 oz liquid melted wax.

Handy reminders for conversions,

453 grams is one pound approx by weight. 28.31 grams per ounce.

16 oz per pound weight, 20 oz liquid melted wax approx per pound of wax

See the Handy Kitchen Measuring page in the frequently asked questions section for more conversion info for cups, pints and other oz to wax fill conversions

Say you were making 4 oz hex jars and they took exactly 4 oz liquid to fill them.

Using 1 pound of any of the above formulas, you would use 1 lb of wax (20 oz liquid), and an ounce of scent per pound. So in reality you would have available from this one pound of wax, 20 oz liquid from the wax, and an additional ounce of scent for a total fill volume of 21 oz. If you did 4 oz jars you would get 5- 4 oz jar fills per pound.

keep this in mind when figuring your costs. You get more than 16 oz of fill volume from a pound of wax with scent. In reality you get 21 oz and alot more product than you had planned on. Your cost per jar just went down using this scenario.

If you have questions concerning anything on this page just give me a quick e-mail at candlemakers@fuse.net